Final Stop: Old Delhi

Matthew and George decided they had had enough of India by the time we returned to Delhi, so they caught early flights home.  Chris had hired two student guides because he thought Old Delhi might be too crowded.  Ahshit (left) and Uma brought along Navneet, a slacker friend.

First they took us to Jama Masjid, the largest mosque in India.  It was built during the reign of Shah Jahan.  You remember him from the Taj Mahal.

We had to cover our legs in order to be admitted.

There were hats, too, for Muslim men who had forgotten to cover their heads.

Check out this chandelier.

We climbed to the top of this minaret, after a mosque official extorted a third fee from us (one for admission, one for a camera, and now one for this).

Did you know that flashing peace signs can be contagious?

I took this shot as we were about to go down again.

Our last group photo.  Even though we already had paid the camera fee, a couple of angry mosque officials tried to demand another payment for this photograph taken on the steps outside.  It was the only time during our trip that I encountered what I'm pretty sure was anti-Western sentiment.  But they backed off when Ahshit told them to.

The twisted streets of Old Delhi were just a short walk away.  A tangle of wiring hung above our heads.

Thirsty?  How about a cup of fresh water buffalo milk?

Maybe some pineapple if you're feeling hungry?

Or perhaps a peeled orange?

Hey, where's the beef?

But we mostly saw wedding items for sale, both retail and wholesale.

 Including money necklaces, typically given to the groom.

Brides wear necklaces, too.

As well as lots of beads and lace.

But if it ain't colorful, it probably ain't Indian.

I loved these hats.

We stopped in one alley where many well-to-do Jains live. They're rich enough to employ servants. Check out the lump of lighted coal in this maid's iron.

Of course Dan bought something.

Many guys aren't shy about mixing color.

We also visited a Sikh temple, but first we had cover our heads. Navneet rose to the occasion for a change.

Counting money in public isn't an activity I associate with houses of worship.

Fortunately the Sikhs didn't spend it all on beautiful decorations like these.

They also operate one of the largest soup kitchens in Delhi, feeding hundreds, possibly thousands of hungry people, no matter their denomination every day.

Meanwhile, the nearby Hindu temple was closed.

When the guides concluded the tour around noon, we took a vote.  Should we visit the Red Fort? Or go shopping?  Which one do you think this crew picked?

Then again, seen one fort, seem 'em all.

Namaste.

Walkabout



Although the Nadesar Palace in Varanasi wasn't my favorite hotel of the trip, I can't say I've ever stayed any place nicer.  Look what we found in each of our rooms.  I think there were only ten altogether.

There seemed to be a floral arrangment around every corner.

Originally built by the East India Company but acquired by the local maharaja in the 19th century, the rooms are named for famous guests.  Chris and Dan stayed in the Queen Elizabeth suite.  Chris posted this photo on Facebook almost immediately.

In case there were any doubts about the provenance of the room, this page from the hotel guestbook hung on the wall.

With another free morning on our hands, Matthew and I left this opulence behind for a walk to the train station that took us through some back streets.  A boy comforted a donkey.

A man milked his water buffalo.

People open shops like they do in New York, by lifting the metal grate.

Others sell fresh vegetables from push carts.

There aren't any stoplights in Varanasi, so directing traffic is a Sisyphean task.

Matthew plugged his ears when dodging tuk tuks.

The train station definitely had an Indian feel.

The timetables alternated between Sanskrit and English.

I don't think I've ever seen longer passenger trains which, like the rest of India, were jammed with friendly people.  

 

A fruit vendor carried a scale on his back.

Another chopped onions for his soup right on the curb directly across from the busy station.

Dung patties, which are used for fuel, dried on the side of a building a short distance away.

Look at the fanciful decoration on this pedicab.

Not to be outdone by this Hindu wedding carriage parked on the side of the road.

Speaking of carriages, look who we found back at the hotel in the Royal Buggy.

They never left the grounds.  They didn't have to.