Thursday, October 5, 2023

Munich Homecoming

Although I lived in Heidelberg as a child and have travelled in Germany as an adult, I hadn't been back to Munich since 1957, when my father was transferred back to the United States. About the only thing I remembered was the Bavarian coat of arms, probably from a little flag which I used to collect as souvenirs of where I'd been in Europe.

 

A sleeping--and possibly homeless--bicyclist certainly wasn't the first thing I expected to see in the airport, often cited as one of the world's best.


The Lufthansa Airport Express bus dropped me off across the street from the seedy Hauptbahnhof where I stowed my luggage in a locker after buying a SIM card.  My meandering took me past Hirmer where I eventually bought a black cashmere turtleneck.  Souvenirs get pricier as you age.


The high-end, five-storey men's wear store looks pretty at night, too.


Hirmer sits on a long pedestrian mall that runs almost the length of the city center to Marienplatz.


Street vendors sell even healthy food.

Surprisingly, I didn't see a pretzel until I hit the Lego store.


Where I also discovered a marvelous image of Neuschwanstein, the raison d'être of my sudden trip.


It was hard to believe that I'd lived in this city less than a decade after Allied forces carpet bombed it in World War II.  Like Dresden, much of it has been rebuilt from scratch.


I had to cross the Isar River, depleted by drought, to get to the pool.

After a refreshing swim, I stumbled upon Munich's thriving graffiti scene.

Look closely and you'll spot a biergarten behind the hole in the wall.


After crossing back over the Isar, I strolled along Maximillianstrasse, Munich's toniest shopping street.  No brand does better window displays than Hermes.


Bicycles definitely outnumbered cars.  


A peculiar but well-tended Michael Jackson memorial had taken root at the base of a German statue in the neighborhood.


A skateboarder practiced next to  a bronze relief of the altstadt (old city).


Water cascaded over sculptural lily pads in a submerged fountain nearby.


But like much of the area, this pretty entrance had an ersatz feel.


Meet my buddy, the wild boar.


Bavaria isn't as blond as I imagined, either in the football merch ads or on the street.


Perhaps that's why AfD, the far-right party did better than expected in state elections several days later, an outcome I wouldn't have expected after encountering this political rally on my way to the King's Hotel.  The protestors and police far outnumbered supporters of the campaigning candidate.

No comments:

Post a Comment