Monday, November 25, 2013

Casa Battlo, Sagrada Familia & the Barcelona Cathedral

I don't think I've ever taken more pictures on a single day.  It began with a walk past this strange sight.


We were en route to Casa Battlo, completely refurbished by Gaudi for a wealthy family in the early 20th century.  Today, the bear community would be happy to claim Barcelona's favorite son.  I can't think of another architect so identified with a single city.


Has a building's facade or roof ever been more imaginative?





An audio guide is included with Casa Battlo's pricey admission.   I'm sure it had plenty of interesting things to say but I've never had much patience for art history especially when it interferes with my photography.  Don't these images, taken as we meandered through all five floors of this truly fabulous house say enough about Gaudi's innovative use of natural materials, color, light and shape?






















No ordinary chimneys at Casa Battlo--Gaudi capped them with mushrooms!



The rest of the roof really "popped" in Barcelona's bright autumn skies, too.



Casa Mila, another Gaudi house,  is just across the street.


Aren't these wrought-iron balcony railings amazing?


But there's beauty pretty much everywhere you look in Barcelona.  Below your feet


. . . as well as above your head.


Even the ambulances are kind of chic.


We passed these buildings and shop windows on our way to Sagrada Familia.  I'll bet you didn't know I was a Dowell owl in elementary school.





Catalans don't make any secret of their desire for independence, that's for sure.





Thom packed us a picnic lunch which we enjoyed in a little park right across from Sagrada Familia.  This Catholic church has been under construction for more than a century.  With any luck, it will be completed in time for the centenary of Gaudi's death 12 years from now.




Trust me, you've never seen anything like Sagrada Familia, inside or out.  Let's start outside.  If Gaudi gets his way, 18 spires will sprout from his neo-Gothic cathedral, the tallest representing Jesus.  Eight down, ten to go.






The Nativity facade, which faces east, is the only one to have been largely completed during Gaudi's lifetime. You can spend hours looking at the incredible detail, which combines religious iconography with natural symbols, like the tree of life which grows above the birth of Jesus.






The Passion facade faces west.  It's simple and modern.




We entered through these gigantic, inscribed doors.



Our admission included an elevator ride to the top of one of the completed spires.  I forgot to ask who it represented, and I also didn't realize that my camera shoots video only horizontally.  But you'll still get an idea of the ride.


You can't beat the view from the top.


I took these photos through small slots cut in the stone on the very long, winding walk down.  Sagrada Familia is like the Carmen Miranda of churches.










We entered the church itself at the perfect time.  Sunlight from the western sun flooded the interior, illuminating the magnificent stained glass.  I don't use the word "awesome" a lot, but it truly describes Gaudi's combination of spirit, nature and light.  "Kaleidoscopic" also comes to mind.  Too bad these photos don't do the deeply moving experience justice.












The altar is as over-the-top as everything else.



There's plenty to see on the floor, too.



Gaudi paid just as much attention to the organ pipes, clam shell water fountains and candelabra.




We were thoroughly "gaudied" out by the time we left Sagrada Familia, but Chris insisted that we visit the Catedral de Barcelona in Barri Gotic.  We took a cab.


I didn't think I was in the mood for another church.



Although I'm a sucker for gargoyles.



If it had been summer, the dress code would have kept me out.  


As it was, we had to wait for a mass to conclude before we could enter.  Chris directed us to 4 Cats where Picasso had an early gallery show.  Great atmosphere for churros dipped in hot chocolate.





 
By the time we left, night had fallen.  The Christmas decorations looked better.



This pooch didn't seem as enamored of Barcelona as we were.


I couldn't believe we still had a church to do as we meandered through the Barri Gothic!


 
The Catedral de Barcelona certainly wasn't very inviting.



Other contrasts with Sagrada Familia were just as extreme:  new vs. old (it goes way, way back to 1298), light vs. dark, kindness vs. cruelty to name just a few of the most obvious.  The cathedral's website also makes it clear that this is the seat of the Catholic church in Barcelona.  But I had to admit, it was pretty impressive.








I learned that there is more than one way to depict the sign of the cross.



There's also a cloister with a beautiful fountain.


It's home to 13 geese.  Each one represents a year in the life of Saint Eulalia, the co-patron saint of Barcelona, a teenage virgin who was tortured  (including crucifixion on an X-shaped cross) and decapitated by the Romans for refusing to renounce her Christianity.


I wonder if this is what they used to cut off Eulalia's breasts after they rolled her around in a barrel filled with spikes?


I'll take Gaudi's brand of kinder, gentler Catholicism!

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