Monday, October 6, 2025

Rear Entrance

The Galleria Vittorio Emanuel II, named for the first man who ruled the Kingdom of Italy,  is a lot classier than any mall in America, that's for sure.


I entered from the Piazza della Scala, where a statue of Leonardo da Vinci, surrounded by four of his pupils, turns his back on commerce.  Christo and Jeanne-Claude wrapped the artist in 1970, long before their track record gave them public license to do such things. Their installation barely lasted a day; angry Italians set the tarpaulin on fire.


It probably would be impossible to torch the four-story Galleria, constructed as it is of marble, stone, iron and glass.

The floor gleams as if it has just been buffed.

It's not ALL luxury brands, however; at one end, a McDonald's beckons, intrusively.

Let them eat cake instead, at Marchesi!


I wondered if these Art Nouveau door handles were original. They could have been; the Galleria opened for business towards the end of the 19th century.

A huge dome, visible from the terrace and roof of the Duomo just beyond, covers the octagonal floor plan.

Directly below, women plant one of their heels on the testicles of a mosaic bull and spin around three times for good luck.  But they have to be quick to get a turn; ballbusting is popular among all nationalities.

La Feltrinelli appears to be Milan's equivalent of Barnes & Noble.

I beg your pardon, Oscar.  Early birds catch the worms!


An Italian book that asks "What would you save from our civilization?" is open to a spread about making espresso.

The Milanese continued to mourn Giorgio Armani, dead for just a month.


Old and new icons of American pop culture remain inescapable no matter where you go.  


Taylor Swift name checks Portofino on "Elizabeth Taylor."  It's less than a three-mile drive south of Milan.


The Galleria is even more imposing if you enter from the Piazza del Duomo.  Pray before or after you shop.

 

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