Showing posts with label Coimbra. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Coimbra. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 24, 2023

Coimbra

If you're planning a trip to Portugal, make sure you don't mind using the stairs.  They're as ubiquitous as tourists. 


Kudos to Coimbra's sanitation department. By the time we returned to the historic center, the streets had been swept clean or hosed, and the air no longer smelled of beer and piss. Potato deliveries were right on schedule.


Bad news awaited at the University of Coimbra.  With the online ticketing system down, we couldn't purchase tickets to see the baroque library, the city's number-one attraction.



But there's always a cathedral to check out.  We started with the "new" cathedral.  New, of course, is a relative term.  Ground for this one was broken in 1541.







From there we headed to the wonderful Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro, which gets its own entry. Afterward, we descended once again to the Mondego River.  I'm assuming this is some kind of political slogan.  The words were repeated along the length of a wall.


Of course the "old" cathedral (by about 350 years), built in the Romanesque style, beckoned.


Portugal's second king was crowned here long before all the froufrou accumulated.




The tiles date back to the 16th century.


They really set off the Baroque statues!




Graffiti down by the river welcomed us back to the 21st Century.



Rents are a lot cheaper in Coimbra than either Lisbon or Porto with one-bedroom apartments available for a little more than $400 per month.


I was surprised when Chris accompanied me for a walk over the Pedro e Inês footbridge until he mentioned that it was worth a point on some travel checklist.  He's just as competitive with sightseeing as Scrabble.

Here's To You, Joachim!

The concierge at our hotel highly recommended visiting the Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro.  "I don't understand why more people don't go there," he said, shaking his head.  It's named after the artist who sculpted King Jao I in Lisbon's waterfront square, a local boy.

Joaquim Machado de Castro (1731-1822)
Ancient Roman ruins from the city of Aeminium comprise the foundation of the beautifully lit museum.




Remember Livia?  Her villainy, whether portrayed by Siân Phillips in I, Claudius or updated for the modern era by Nancy Marchand in The Sopranos, is timeless.

Most of the museum's extensive collection originated in Coimbra but Machado de Castro created little of it.  I can't think of many museums named for artists that honor them rather than exhibit their work.

Arches make great selfie frames for tourists 


. . . and friars.


A lot of the sculpture once decorated Coimbra's monastery, where Inês de Castro lost her head.  The museum affords visitors the opportunity to view artistic detail in close-up instead of long shot.

 (14th Century)
Chris, who's seen a lot of religious art, said depictions of Christ between the crucifixion and resurrection are rare.  An American tourist nearby agreed when she saw the shrouded body reclining atop a tomb.

(14th-15th Centuries)
Yes, his feet are bloody.  Nail wounds in his hands also are visible.


Label text indicates that Roman sentries sleep "impiously" at the base.  How does pious sleep look?


Pregnant Marys are rare, too.


St. Agatha (14th Century)
During the Renaissance, João de Ruão established an influential workshop in Coimbra.  He illustrated the  passion of Christ on a pediment that took him a decade (1530-1540) to sculpt and paint.




Sixteenth century, life-size terra cotta statues depicting the last supper fill an entire room. Mary Magdalene turned out to be a fey John the Baptist.


Christ
Judas
I find Baroque gaudiness appealing.

St. Theresa of Avila (18th Century)
This piece took me right back to Museo Soumaya in Mexico City.  

Sacred Heart of Jesus (18th Century)
The museum's cafe offers an excellent view of Coimbra's old cathedral.


I almost never use my phone for anything other than a camera when I'm traveling.


The museum's collection had many fewer paintings.

"Assumption of the Virgin" (detail) by Vincente Gil (16th Century)
"Christ on the Road to Calvary, St. Peter" by Garcia Fernandes (1531)
Valuable and bejeweled artifacts like these were likely once stored in the sacristies of Coimbra's monastery or cathedrals.  Janet and I both wondered how the museum acquired such valuable bling.

Virgin & Child (1330-1336)

Monstrance (1810-18)
Another section of the museum exhibited a variety of household items and furnishings, at least one of which raised our eyebrows.

Dish (1800-25)
Box (1817-35)
Embossed Leather
Ivory Crucifix from India (17th Century)
Decorative Wood Beam Carving (15th Century)
Wall Covering (15th Century)
Museu Nacional de Machado de Castro may not get as many visitors as it deserves because most of the information about it online is in Portuguese.  Somebody should change that.