Thursday, May 13, 2021

City of Mansions and Churches

After getting to Charleston with plenty of daylight left on Thursday afternoon, we began our tour with the Pineapple Fountain which fronts the Cooper River.

Watch a bird fly past in this slo-mo video.


We spent most of our time wandering around the colorful and historic mansions south of Broad Street.


Too bad the  pandemic temporarily ended tours of the Williams Mansion, the largest in the city and a Gilded Age jewel.


Kudos to whomever bricked around the limb of this tree rather than cut it off.


Window boxes, door knobs and ceramic tiles really zhuzh up the neighborhood.




The children's choir at the First Baptist Church on Church Street performed its spring concert with the doors open.



There seem to be almost as many churches in Charleston as palm trees.  French Protestants, or Huguenots have worshipped on this land since 1687, through the Civil War and an earthquake.


Many of Charleston's citizens are buried in small church cemeteries.


This bike--named the "Holy Roller"--provides the perfect mode of transportation to Sunday services.  


A ray of light illuminated another.


Don't try to eat in Charleston without making reservations.  Fortunately, Randy texted us the name of restaurant on Folly Beach which he described as a "romp in the swamp."  We found Bowen's Island Restaurant at the end of a dirt road just before the kitchen closed.


My delicious crab cake came in a real shell!



Ernest The Crabber

Filling up in Jacksonville--where only supreme flowed from the pumps--proved that reported gas shortages in the southeast might affect our trip.  Fortunately the Marathon station in Hardeeville, SC had gotten a supply just before we arrived.


We followed a sign to Grays Hill Boat Landing, just outside of Beaufort,  for a picnic lunch on a tidal river.


Unbeknownst to us at the time, Marcus Graves, a black teen, was found dead at this spot in 2019, a likely murder victim.  So sad especially because a chance encounter in the same location brought me so much joy at the time.


While chowing down on our leftover pork loin sandwiches, we heard a boat with a radio playing old school rhythm and blues approach the dock.  Ernest told us he had been trapping blue crabs in these muddy waters for 25 years.

A bushel of large blue crabs can bring him as much as $1500 now that the Chesapeake Bay has been mostly depleted by restaurants in Maryland and Virginia.

Oddly enough, we couldn't find blue crab on any menus in Charleston.  A waiter at Nico's told us the locals considered them too common.  Go figure.


I'll never eat crab again without thinking of Ernest.





 

Savannopoly

By the time we reached Savannah from Lake Worth, the skies had darkened and the temperature had dropped nearly 30 degrees, curtailing any immediate impulse to sightsee.

 

We overate high cholesterol food downtown at Lady & Sons where Thom surreptitiously shot this underdressed patron, who was 70 if she was a day. A family of African Americans at a nearby table made me feel less guilty about our restaurant choice.

Loretto, the super-chic director of alumni relations at a convent school, was a character more to our liking.  Without much prompting she told us that her friend John Berendt, author of Midnight in the Garden of Good & Evil, brought her a stone from a witch doctor, which she held on their way to the beach.  "I had a 100 warts on my legs," she confided.  "When I removed my cover up, they were all gone.  All of them."  

Here's Thom in front of the home where the murder in Midnight takes place.

Savannah's architecture definitely charms.  Two views of the Armstrong Kessler Mansion, just off Forsyth Park where we easily found two-hour parking.


The fountain there never fails to enchant.



The producers of The Underground Railroad used the Telfair Museum of Arts & Sciences as location for an episode based in South Carolina.


We peeked  inside the St. John the Baptist Cathedral, too.







Friday, May 7, 2021

Later: My Life at the Edge of the World (2*)


OK I was jealous as soon as I read an interview in the New York Times with Paul Lisicky, a gay writer whose earlier work was unfamiliar to me.  How had he managed to publish HIS memoir of surviving the HIV epidemic in Provincetown for a couple of years during the early 90s?  My curiosity intensified when he cited Joni Mitchell's unique voice as an inspiration. That's a level of perceptive honesty that few writers achieve.

Lisicky's account of living in "Town," as he refers to the literary community that embraced him resembles the Pines in its rigid hierarchies and seasonal ebb and flow.  He describes it well if you don't mind the flavor of overly workshopped writing but Liskicky barely makes himself interesting let alone his friends and colleagues.  He likely pulled his punches because he didn't want to hurt their feelings or sully the memories of the dead.   His book is also woefully lacking in incident aside from the day he dressed up as an ice cream cone to support the lover with whom he no longer has sex and marching sourly in a main street parade.

I look up to see the people I know – Jim and Al, for instance, look at me with pitying smiles. The pain’s about them, too, as no one‘s exactly having fun. The look in their eyes suggests we’ll remember all this but we’d prefer to remember something else. Joy, for one, but joy doesn’t etch its letters on your brain. Rather the brain wants hurt, wants to hold onto it, as it contains the possibility of work, negotiating with it over time.

Hurt clearly turns him on.

That feeling hurt: Hurt is my biggest drug, even though I don’t often say that to myself. It’s always so tempting to go there, to get that surge, that fix. What else out there, aside from sex, makes me feel more alive from the inside out? What else tests my resilience, reminds me of it?

I, for one, don't have much patience for someone who lets the negative push the positive out of life.  As traumatic as the epidemic was prior to the development of effective medications, watching how people dealt with HIV taught me an important lesson about human nature:  joyful people generally have better endings than the Debbie Downers they leave behind.

Lisicky also seems pretty uncomfortable about his sexual proclivities.  Instead of embracing the freedom from responsibility that gay life offered to men who observed safer sex techniques, he throws shade. 

Slutty: bad word in these years. Slutty gives you sickness, slutty makes other people sick. Slutty makes you die, even if we know you could practically be Saint John of the Cross and still manage to seroconvert. 

Slutty is low class which is possibly the worst thing to be in the United States of America. 

Still, he's not entirely blind to the ego boost semi-anonymous sex can provide.

It’s always daunting to slip down the street to the Boatyard, even in the middle of the night. Someone could be walking by, usually it’s a group, laughter brought on by too much booze. But what if it’s someone I have a routine casual banter with, say the lady in the health food store, the guy who signs me in at the gym? All sorts of people call themselves sex positive, but they might think differently of me if they saw me rushing down that notorious lane, hands in my pockets, steeling my shoulders, as if I’d just shoplifted a pork chop and held it under my arm. Guess who I saw going to the Dick Dock? that person might say. And the unspoken shared belief involves stereotypes of unmanageability, trashiness, self-disgust, disease sharing, and a pitiful sense of: couldn’t he do better?  They’d never see me the same way again.

Even in a sex positive church, sluts are not always viewed as high priests. 

Of course once I’m walking among the boat hulls I feel uncannily safe, even if I could possibly trip on an iron spike, conk my head against a low beam. Though it’s all in the dark, it’s all pretty easy-going and respectful, with bursts of group intensity.  The sex I see is what’s called safe sex: blow jobs and hand jobs. If horniness weren’t narrowing my perception, I’d be able to step back and see how cinematic it is. All those bodies moving—it is like a scene out of Fellini if Fellini had been queer. No wonder the moon likes it here, shining a trail on the harbor from the Truro bluffs to this very spot. There’s a swirly, muscular bull, with the face and demeanor of a bouncer. He’s reportedly a famous night club promoter. People from every corner of life show up here. I’ve tried to catch his eye all summer, but it’s been hopeless. I’ve even given up on looking at him when I pass him on the sidewalk, if only out of self-respect – I don’t want to think of myself as a creep, the kind of person who leers. I’m not his type, clearly. I don’t have big enough muscles, don’t have big enough attitude. My swagger would never match his, which was probably cultivated by his relatives on the streets of Napoli, then Bensonhurst. Possibly he wants someone with classic features, more all-American, the polar opposite of him. But in the dark he’s a different human. His eyes practically tear up when I touch his neck. I crouch down to suck his dick but he really wants to suck mine, and I back into a post and concentrate on his mouth. I close my eyes. I am as happy as if I’ve published a book.

Lisicky eventually found a home in academia, the perfect refuge for a man who lives more in his head than out of it.  Sour grapes?  Maybe.  But I'm pretty sure his connections explain the publication of this very dull book.



Thursday, May 6, 2021

Overstay

If I'd had my druthers, Thom and I would have left Lake Worth shortly after we visited the Kips Bay show house in mid April.  But he wanted to float in the pool a little longer and my (cracked) wheels back to New York are his.


Of course if we'd departed earlier, we wouldn't have been able to take advantage of Leah's offer:  Linda, her twin sister died several months ago, and Leah offered us first dibs on Linda's furniture.  We rented a Dodge Ram for $100 to pick up some wicker furniture. A different driving experience from the Mercedes, let me tell ya!


Linda's neighbor, Elayne, gave us access to her apartment.  What a pistol--she texted like a millennial.


I also added plenty of bicycle shots to my collection.




Along with another wheeled object.


We remained in West Palm long enough to see the completion of the beach replenishment project.


Now the beach is as wide as I've ever seen it.  Who knows how long it will last?


A boat with a New York registration number washed up in front of the Four Seasons Hotel.


Creatures in flight above the water.




I rinsed my beach combing bounty before departure as part of my staging process.

Some finds never made it home from the beach.


My walks--including an exploration of the El Cid neighborhood--started later as the days grew longer and hotter.

They typically involved crossing a drawbridge over the Intracoastal.



Late afternoon sun shows Lake Worth's old cottages to their best advantage.




And there always are stunning blooms in the tropics.




 The rainy season began.