Tuesday, July 30, 2024

IM: A Memoir (3*)

 

Fashion generally only interests me by the time it gets to a museum, as was the case with 90s It Boy Isaac Mizrahi.  Somehow, I missed Unzipped even though the documentary was directed by Mizrahi's first serious boyfriend, the man behind the incomparable Madonna: Truth or Dare.  But when I finally encountered the designer's retrospective at the Jewish Museum in 2016, I thrilled to his idiosyncratic use of color, creativity and costume.

I certainly didn't thrill to IM, his less-than-dishy memoir.  On the one hand, it's an undeniably well-written account of his fascinating career, with early stints at both Perry Ellis and Calvin Klein, and oh-so-discreet descriptions of his interactions with divas, including Liza and Audrey.  On the other, it's also a narcissistic catalog of his neuroses, insecurity and insomnia with too many pages devoted to his childhood and endless attacks on the insular culture that spawned him.  Did Mizrahi ever have any fun?  No wonder Stephen Sondheim "ex-communicated" him.  Get over yourself, honey!

Even more disturbing, his faith in the occult led him to abandon the unique talent so clearly evident at the Jewish Museum for a less than stellar stint in show biz.  The book ends with the fulfillment Mizrahi derives from performing his cabaret show, admittedly a lot less taxing than producing a clothing line.  Instead of the Syrian Jews who clapped for his garage puppet shows and impersonations of Barbra, he now basks in the applause of a sophisticated audience at the Cafe Carlyle.

I guess he just couldn't cut it in the real world.  What a loss.  

Open Throat (4*)

 


If this amusing, lyrically written environmental parable, recently adapted for live performance at Little Island, had been longer than 40 pages, I might not have read it.  That would have been my loss.  Henry Hoke convincingly inhabits the consciousness of a California mountain lion whose territory includes hikers and a homeless encampment.  He learns all he needs to know about contemporary life by eavesdropping on the former.

is new york where I have to go

from what people say it sounds like everyone there is coming here and that’s why everything is changing or why everything costs too much now or why all the good things about ellay are disappearing

I want to do the opposite I want to go to a place where I won’t be hated

where there are therapists running around everywhere like deer and I can just find one and catch it and pin it down

store it somewhere safe and visit it once a week 

Did I mention the mountain lion is discreetly gay?  He falls in love with a kill sharer who gets killed crossing the freeway, evocatively described like this:

the long death up close and in focus was even harder to take with its lights and speeding murderous cars never stopping on their hell ride to the right and to the left 

The mountain lion even buddies up with fag-hag-in-training who calls him heckit and takes him on a joyride to disnee before the book turns deadly serious, pointing a finger at the kind of heterosexual male behavior that threatens our planet far more than any animal predator.

Wednesday, July 24, 2024

Barney's Back

Although I don't pretend to understand his work, I've always been fascinated by Matthew Barney.  So much so that I ripped off the title of his 2003 show at the Guggenheim for an AOL screen name:  Cremaster.  It refers to the involuntary muscle that raises and lowers the testes.  Too obscure by far for most of the men cruising M4M chat rooms.  Remember those?


My fascination with Barney rests solidly on the superficial:  his hunkiness, his journey from jock to artist and his decade-long relationship with Bjork, with whom he has a new millennium daughter, now 20something.  Now that's what I call a pedigree!  Here's the artist in a video-captured act of cosplay creativity.


But just the other day, I noticed the catalog for "The Cremaster Cycle" on my bookshelf and wondered "what ever happened . . . ?"  The Gladstone Gallery provided the answer with "Secondary", a multi media show in which Barney explores both football and the subterranean clay pipes that water New York City.  Using dumbbells, of course.

 



Not that it matters.  I remain an intrigued fanboy.

"Supine Axis"

"Vertebral Space"
Power Rack with Fractured Bar Bell 

Monday, July 22, 2024

The Sympathizer (4*)



It's a wonder that it took me so long to discover this Pulitzer-prize winning novel--a satire of American imperialism narrated by a double agent and written by Vietnamese man who fled his divided country in 1975 after the U.S. withdrew its forces, eventually becoming a professor at the University of California--that now also has been adapted as an HBO series.   Viet Thanh Nguyen's native land has been a source of fascination ever since my father returned from Saigon a changed man, disillusioned by a military government that reported actual "fake news" long before it became a political platform.  And I've also seen for myself the yin and yang mindsets between the country's north and south--Nguyen lived in both as a child--that continue to battle for dominance half a century later despite the unification of the Socialist Republic of Viet Nam.  

The Sympathizer grabbed me immediately in a way that novels by John le Carré and Graham Greene haven't, perhaps because the stiff-upper-lip Englishness of their characters kept them at some cool remove.  Not so the bravura and endlessly quotable voice of The Sympathizer's anonymous spy which at times sounds a bit like Alexander Portnoy's.  Nguyen even ups the ante, in what only can be a deliberate nod to Philip Roth: his narrator uses a squid instead of a liver to achieve adolescent sexual satisfaction before declaring, as an adult:

I, for one, am a person who believes that the world would be a better place if the word “murder” made us mumble as much as the word “masturbation.” 

Like his conflicted spy, who is sent by his North Vietnamese handlers to college in California during the 60s,  Nguyen knows America in a way that its natives do not.  He also writes as well or better than most of my favorite contemporary American authors, and his frequent allusions to '60s pop culture always hit their mark.

Although every country thought itself superior in its own way, was there ever a country that coined so many “super” terms from the federal bank of its narcissism, was not only superconfident but also truly superpowerful, that would not be satisfied until it locked every nation of the world into a full nelson and made it cry Uncle Sam?

Nguyen is just as fluent in identifying prejudices against "Orientals," among whom Americans refuse to distinguish.

We were strange aliens rumored to have a predilection for Fido Americanus, the domestic canine on whom was lavished more per capita than the annual income of a starving Bangladeshi family. (The true horror of this situation was actually beyond the ken of the average American. While some of us indeed had been known to sup on the brethren of Rin Tin Tin and Lassie, we did not do so in the Neanderthalesque way imagined by the average American, with a club, a roast, and some salt, but with a gourmand’s depth of ingenuity and creativity, our chefs able to cook canids seven different virility-enhancing ways, from extracting the marrow to grilling and boiling, as well as sausage making, stewing, and a few varieties of frying and steaming—yum!)

But beneath the double agent's  hyper-articulate cynicism beats a lost boy's heart. Fathered by a French Catholic priest who teaches but never claims his progeny, the narrator loses his fiercely loving mother, a North Vietnamese peasant, while attending college in the States.  Much later, his handlers on both sides support his assignment to help Francis Ford Coppola, oops, I mean "the auteur," cast some actual Vietnamese in his upcoming movie blockbuster, giving it a patina of Hollywood verisimilitude.   On set, the narrator encounters a graveyard complete with fake tombstones and personalizes one for his mother, a gesture I found so touching, perhaps because I lost mine at the same age, that I almost could forgive him for two murders his sentimental allegiance--strengthened by two actual blood brothers--forces him to commit.

On the gray face of the tombstone I painted her name and her dates in red, the mathematics of her life absurdly short for anyone but a grade-schooler to whom thirty-four years seemed an eternity. Tombstone and tomb were cast from adobe rather than carved from marble, but I took comfort in knowing no one would be able to tell on film. At least in this cinematic life she would have a resting place fit for a mandarin’s wife, an ersatz but perhaps fitting grave for a woman who was never more than an extra to anyone but me.

The Sympathizer hits a speed bump near the end when it turns more philosophical, perhaps even nihilistic, ending with uncertainty rather than resolution, and invoking another great American novel: Thomas Wolfe's You Can't Go Home Again.  But waiting a decade to read nevertheless Nguyen's terrifically entertaining novel had its advantages.  I can read his sequel, The Committed, sooner rather than later, while hoping that he finally shows his hand.


Friday, July 19, 2024

Harlem Renaissance, Sleeping Beauties & Sculpted Graffiti

Catching up at the Met is always fun despite the summer crowds.  This Surinamese immigrant, a model and musician who led bands in both Europe and America, couldn't be more dapper.  It's my favorite work from The "Harlem Renaissance and Transatlantic Modernism" which includes a dozen artists unknown to me previously, a refrain that I sing more and more in these posts now that the museum world is finally making up for lost time and exhibiting works by marginalized groups, including women, far more frequently.  

Louis Richard Drenthe/On The Terrace by Nola Hatterman (1930)
Howard University professor Alain Locke preached a simpatico gospel more than a century ago, urging African Americans to look to their own culture and past for edification and artistic inspiration.

Alain Leroy Locke by Winold Reiss (1925)
German-born artist Winold Reiss illustrated Locke's seminal work, The New Negro, and painted other leading lights of Harlem.


Langston Hughes by Winold Reiss (1925)
The exhibit also includes this noble sculpture of Paul Robeson, a Renaissance man if ever there was one.
The Harlem Renaissance produced Josephine Baker, too.  She recently became the first Black woman to be inducted into the French Panthéon.


The jazzy compositions of Jacob Lawrence never fail to impress.  Wisps of cigarette smoke rise off the canvas like riffs.

"Pool Parlor" (1942)
The striking work by William H. Johnson deserves to be the colorful show's signature image.

"Woman In Blue" (ca 1943)
Here's the artist in triplicate.

Triple Self-Portrait by William H. Johnson (1944)
More than one stunning portrait of a woman graces the exhibit.

"Girl in a Red Dress" by Charles Henry Alston (1934)
"Black Woman Wearing a Blue Hat & Dress"
by Miguel Covarrubias (1927)
It's not often that museums provide a glimpse of Black middle class life.

"Mr. & Mrs. Barton" by John N. Robinson (1942)
Romare Bearden depicted an entire Harlem block in this remarkable painted collage.


"The Block" (detail, 1971)
The Costume Institute knows how to pack 'em in, that's for sure.  Winding through a narrow white labyrinth, visitors to Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion sniff their way (yes, you read that right) through themed displays like this one for roses.  Isaac Mizrahi is a more interesting dressmaker than memoirist, that's for sure.


Hat by John Galliano (detail, 2007)
Hat by Jasper Conran & Philip Treacy (1992)
Rose Dress by Dolce & Gabbana (2024)
Other flowers get their due, too.  The older I get the more I realize there was nothing quite like the simple femininity of Mr. Dior's dresses.

"Vilmorin" Ensemble by Christian Dior (1952)
Women's fashion once posed almost as big a threat to birds as skyscrapers now do.  But domestic cats are an even bigger menace, killing more than a billion each year.

"The Nightingale & the Rose" Necklace by Simon Costin (partial, 1989)
No swallows had to die to make this Alexander McQueen jacket and the Met's "Savage Beauty" exhibit didn't have to rely on olfactory tubes to draw enormous crowds.


This "Nautiloid" dress by Iris von Herpen from 2020 looked like no other.


Graffiti crudely scrawled by children on desks in the former Yugoslavia inspired "Abetare," the Met's Roof Garden Commission.  Kosovar artist Petrit Halilaj lost not one but two homes in the regional war during the late 90s.  The New Museum also has exhibited his work.


Petrit, who is gay, likened his childhood displacement to the feeling brought by the awakening of his sexual orientation.  


The repetitive images he found in the graffiti--both artistic and expressive of pop culture (find Messi below)--brought him a sense of connection which he deftly conveys through his unusual and moving work, once you know his backstory.


But like all remarkable art, it can be appreciated simply for the joy it brings.  I'm just surprised there aren't any penises!

Thursday, July 11, 2024

Shelley Duvall (1949 - 2024)


Hollywood always has liked its actresses skinny but few women have used it to such quirky effect as Shelley Duvall.  Even if Robert Altman hadn't already discovered and cast her in a series of films that defined one of American cinema's most idiosyncratic collaborations, she would have been perfect for Olive Oyl in his insane Popeye.  


Altman had so much faith in Duvall that he gave her carte blanche to write much of her own dialog which may explain why I couldn't tell you what the hell 3 Women was about, but so what. You simply couldn't take your eyes off her.

Odd, then, that it took perfectionist Stanley Kubrick to give her screen immortality in The Shining.  He used her rubbery physicality to give viewers the film's most macabre chuckle when Duvall is being chased by her ax-wielding husband:  not even she can wriggle through the narrow bathroom window to safety!

But Duvall punched way above her weight.  Her sweetness and innocence made an impression as big as her native Texas where she returned after the duplicity of Los Angeles literally proved to be sickening.

“How would you feel if people were really nice, and then, suddenly, on a dime,” she said, snapping her fingers, “they turn on you? You would never believe it unless it happens to you. That’s why you get hurt, because you can’t really believe it’s true.”

Photo by Katherine Squire

 

  

Friday, July 5, 2024

Three Women (Plus A Guy) @ MoMA

The life of Käthe Kollwitz spanned one of the grimmest periods in Western history; as an adult German she witnessed the horrors of two world wars, losing a son to the first and a grandson to the second.  The Gestapo nearly imprisoned her and her husband for their refusal to support the Third Reich.  Covering her eyes and mouth seems to be the only sane reaction.

"The Lamentation" (1941-42)
Yet she did neither, so clear-eyed--even at 23--that the viewer may be more likely to turn away when confronting her work.  Kollwitz never painted pretty pictures.  Instead, her artistic credo screams "stop this insanity" from the perspective of a woman, wife, mother and lover.
 
Self-Portrait, Turned Slightly to the Left (ca 1893)
Trained as a painter, Kollwitz abandoned color early in her career.

"Uprising" (state I, 1899)
She began making prints to reach a wider audience and looked back nearly five centuries to the German Peasants War to create a timeless image of the violence men inflict on women. Given the events to come, her work is almost prescient.

"Raped" from "Peasant's War" (1907-08)
She also exposed herself to unrelenting scrutiny.  This work, never exhibited in her lifetime, depicts an extramarital affair whose passion remains raw and undeniable.  She nevertheless persisted in her marriage to a Berlin physician--whose working-class clientele reaffirmed her left-wing politics--for nearly 50 years until his death in 1940.  Kollwitz died months before the defeat of the Nazis.

"Love Scene I" (1909-10)
A humanist and a pacifist, Kollwitz chose the murder of a communist as the subject of her first woodcut, establishing the style which led to her current reputation as a German expressionist.  Her MoMA retrospective demonstrates illustrates her career-defining grief in many different forms.

"In Memoriam Karl Liebknecht" (1920)
The simplicity of this work conveys emotion so powerfully that it's almost painful to behold.

"The Widow" from "War" (1921-22)
Oddly, Wikipedia doesn't mention that her bust is the most recent addition to Wallhalla, the grand Bavarian temple erected by King Ludwig I to make Germans proud of their heritage. The sculptor captures her unflinching, accusatory gaze.


"Monuments of Solidarity," an unusual exhibit of multimedia works by LaToya Ruby Frazier, explores the impact of events over which local communities have no control, including the contamination of drinking water in Flint, Michigan and the closure of the General Motors plant in Lordstown, Ohio.  It's as much sociology as art.  In this photo, Frazier honors Chicana activist Dolores Huerta for her work as a young woman on behalf of farm workers in California.


Welcome to the wild, wonderful world of Joan Jonas whose weird (in a good way!) work has somehow eluded me for my entire life.  She's 88.


The backdrop of this video shows her at home in Cape Breton Island, which I missed during a visit to Nova Scotia nearly a decade ago.




Jonas is particularly good at engaging her audience, or perhaps this is yet another example of the selfie generation running amok in a museum.




As much as I loved the Guggenheim's 2022 retrospective of Alex Katz, MoMA makes equally great spatial use of its auditorium to hang "Seasons," a more recent work.