Saturday, November 1, 2014

Into Africa


Chris, Dan, Tom and I met in Nairobi for the first leg of our African adventure, a weekend getaway to the private Oserian Wildlife Refuge, near Lake Naivasha.  If you want a convenient way to say you've been "on safari" this is the place.  Apparently, it's quite popular with the locals.


We arrived around noon, after a drive through the magnificent Rift Valley and past greenhouses that put roses in most of Europe's vases.  Ibrahim, our wonderful driver, had grown up on a tea farm in the highlands.  He gave us a crash course in Kenyan cultural and political history en route to our lodge.


We had first-rate accommodations throughout Kenya, thanks to Robin, Chris's contact at the US Embassy, and Rose at Timeless Tours and Travels.  Unexpectedly, we spent Saturday night at Chiu Lodge.  A little too "Lion King" for some, I enjoyed the over-the-top decor. The suite Thom and I shared even had a den with a fire place.  The ever-attentive staff introduced us to hot water bottles in our beds at night.  Who knew something so basic could be so delightful?







After a tasty lunch, our guide Bennet took us on our first game drive.  In just two days, he showed us more than 30 animals, including our first giraffe and wildebeest.  They wouldn't be our last.



Acacia trees give the Kenyan landscape its distinctive look.


On Sunday we toured Lake Navaisha by boat as pelicans soared above.



Hippos kill more humans in Africa than lions, rhinos and elephants combined. They're hard to spot unless you know where to look.



Unlike warthogs.  If you're a New Yorker, think pigeons or rats, but much cuter despite their grotesque heads.  They trot, adorably.


We spent the night at the nearby Kiangazi Lodge, noted for its spectacular views and "colonial" atmosphere.  Karen Blixen would be right at home.  We skipped the afternoon game drive to relax by the pool with Tusker beer and cocktails.



That fence keeps the people inside.


Bats love Kiangazi, too.  They roost under the eaves of the lodge.  At twilight, hundreds swarm into the skies.  This baby didn't make it.




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