Polish kings in the 13th century called it "white gold" because European salt sales eventually funded a third of the royal treasury when miners--using pick axes and shovels--first began extracting it from the mine at the Wieliczka, about 10 miles southwest of Kraków. Salt was then used to preserve as well as season food.
The Wieliczka salt mine ceased operations in 1996 but tourists--including Copernicus, Goethe, Chopin and Bill Clinton--have been exploring the chambers for two centuries just like we did. They extend for 178 miles and go as deep as 1,000 feet. Visitors see only a fraction on guided tours that last three hours.
Legend has it a Polish noble's engagement to a Hungarian princess resulted in the discovery of the salt works (Wieliczka is one of two mines in close proximity). Prior to leaving home, Kinga threw her engagement ring into a local salt mine. Upon arrival in Kraków, she instructed the Poles where to dig to recover her ring (and dowry!) from the vein of salt it magically had ridden in from Hungary. Statues carved from rock salt by miners (in their spare time!) re-enact the scene, 330 feet below the surface. We took took the stairs.
Various tableaus along the way illustrate mine operations through the ages. Pulleys were critical in both extracting slabs of rock salt from the mines and moving it in barrels up to the surface.
The torches that miners carried occasionally ignited methane explosions. In addition to backbreaking labor, the fatality rate was very high.
The mines saw the introduction of horses, lowered down by pulley-operated harnesses, in the 16th century. Although they were very well kept, the young horses, selected for non-skittishness, didn't see daylight again until retirement. Salt production increased to 30,000 tons per year.
Both the temperature and humidity underground are conducive to the preservation of wood and rope. These timbers are four hundred years old.
With what seemed to be a church on every corner in Poland, we weren't surprised to learn miners could worship at four different underground chapels, including this one, named for Kinga, now the patron saint of Poland.
Again, the miners use chisels to sculpt everything (except the floors) from rock salt.
Including this bas relief of The Last Supper.
The statue of Pope John Paul II is of more recent vintage. We learned there will be a "surprise" addition to the chapel next year.
In the meantime, the only Polish Pope casts a big shadow.
Underground lakes are as salty as the Dead Sea.
Chopin's "Nocturnes" played in this darkened chamber.
Looking up in the gift shop guarantees vertigo. Fortunately, a crowded, cage elevator--definitely not for the claustrophobic--took us back to the top at the end of the tour.
More Poland
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