Showing posts with label Carmen Miranda. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Carmen Miranda. Show all posts

Thursday, April 19, 2018

São João Batista Cemetery

I couldn't believe it took Christine and me less than half an hour to walk from the villa to the cemetery we'd seen from the viewing platform at Christo Redentor, barely visible here on top of Corvocado.


Were it not for the mountain tunnel connecting Copacabana to Botafogo, it would have been a steep climb through a favela.



So much peace and beauty awaited us on "the other side."We entered through a rear gate, not far from a flower shop.


Christian imagery dominated, as you would expect in a country that has the world's largest Catholic population.













 



Classical and Art Deco influences shaped several of the most distinctive tombstones.





Some of the deceased, mostly men, celebrated their careers.



Others, themselves.






In death, Carmen Miranda chose piety over camp.



Even angels need to be whitewashed occasionally.



We also took a quick peek a nearby museum, a villa owned by Brazil's most famous composer.  Briefly embraced by Hollywood,  Heitor Villa-Lobos seasoned his mostly classical compositions with a dash of samba and put South American music on the world map.


Villa-Lobos introduced us to the interesting work of Dimitri Ismailovitch, a Brazilian painter born in Russia.  Relatively unknown, he captured the glorious ethnic, if mostly male, diversity of his adopted country in these 20th century paintings.



Street art in Botafogo is just as colorful.


Our walk back to Copacabana took us past two very different shops.



We got thumbs up signs at both, even though we bought souvenirs only at this one.



More Cemeteries:

The Green-Wood Cemetery (Brooklyn, NY)


Tuesday, April 17, 2018

Downtown Walking Tour

It was easy to find indigenous food on the busy streets of Centro.


This vendor was selling potatoes.


Not sure what's in these bags.


It seems like flip flops and sunglasses are available on every corner, too.



The Municipal Theater, in Cinelandia (love the neighborhood name!) is one of Rio's most beautiful buildings.


We stopped at Confeitaria Colombo for refreshment.  It reminded me of Demel in Vienna.



Andrew was civilized enough to remove his hat.


Afterward, Antonio led us to a pair of side-by-side churches.


The Old Cathedral served as the archdiocese of Rio until 1976 when the Metropolitan Cathedral opened.  Brazilian Catholics had worshipped in the Carmelite complex, which also included a convent, for nearly two centuries.



Severed heads were in ready supply.  Nobody could explain why.



The altar next door was a lot darker.





We walked past Carmen Miranda's home on our way to another church.  More than half a million people attended her funeral but the museum celebrating her life had closed while the artifacts and personal effects were being absorbed into a larger collection elsewhere, not yet open to the public. Andrew camped it up in front of her door to compensate for my keen disappointment.


We definitely got a sense of Rio's colonial history in Centro's narrow alleys.




Antonio said this church was one of the few where slaves were allowed to worship.  I couldn't find any corroboration but I liked it better than the others.





Its proximity to Carmen Miranda's home made me wonder if these figures inspired the "Brazilian bombshell's" famous fruit hats.  "Chica chica boom chic" indeed--Carmen was the original drag queen!



We dined at a former spice warehouse.  Very fancy.  And leisurely.



The marinated heart of palm with cashews looked really good but I was still too full from breakfast and the coffee milkshake I had at Confeitaria Colombo to eat.  


After lunch we checked out the post office and a park not far from the waterfront.



The 2016 Summer Olympic flame once burned here.



While locals fished for dinner in Praca XV, Thom squeezed in a nap.




A relief on a municipal building honored the merits of hard work.



The Olympics improved Rio's transportation infrastructure with a shiny new light rail that doesn't seem like it gets much use two years later.


Plenty of Cariocas were taking breaks as we walked to the metro.



Women played cards at an outdoor market.


Antonio nearly took us in the wrong direction at the Uruguaiana station.


We rode back to the villa with this rapt fellow.  I should submit his picture to Hot Dudes Reading.  As hard as we tried, neither Christine nor I could make out the title, although it did appear to be written in Portuguese.