Tuesday, March 28, 2023

Bad Mexicans: Race, Empire & Revolution in the Borderlands (4*)

 


Kelly Lytle Hernández won the Bancroft Prize for her account of the (mostly) men who fomented the Mexican Revolution while my tour of the nation's capital city was coming to an end.  Although I rarely read history books, I thought it would help me overcome my dawning (and inexcusable) ignorance about a childhood neighbor.  Mission accomplished, but like The 1619 Project, Bad Mexicans left me utterly dismayed with the pervasiveness of white supremacy in American history.

Not that Ricardo Flores Magon, the soul of the Mexican Revolution, would have been surprised,  A closeted anarchist who eventually declared "solemn war on Authority, Capital and Clergy" he and his compatriots, the majority of whom were socialists, formed the Partido Liberal Mexicano (PLM ) party  and published Regeneración, a radical newspaper that raised the consciousness of Mexicans on both sides of the border.  The reader quickly realizes that today's immigration problems haven't changed much in more than a century and that Mexican history can't be understood without American history and vice versa.

And what a sad, exploitive history it has been, aided and abetted by both the Mexican and American governments.  The magonistas as they were known rebelled against dictator Porfirio Diaz, who sold his country's natural resources and labor to the Yankees like the Guggenheims, the Hearsts and the Rockefellers.  His corrupt government justified killing as many as 10,000 people,  justifying these murders with ley fuego or "law of flight" which gave his lackeys authority to shoot rebels in the back.

The U.S., for its part, passed "Juan Crow" laws that stripped Mexican Americans of their rights and property.  Hernández describes these laws in the context of how the US government used them to try to deport magonistas living in the U.S. (Magon himself holed up in St. Louis, of all places, for a time) and acknowledges the power (and occasional) fairness of our state court system (even in Texas!) which ruled that Mexicans have a right to become naturalized citizens.  She also exposes the US Post Office's efforts to keep the Diaz government informed of the magonistas' whereabouts and activities.  Ironically, though, the complicity of the postal authorities led to the treasure trove of letters that enabled Hernández to document the magonista movement so thoroughly.  She found most of their illegally obtained correspondence archived by the Mexican government.

Ultimately, the Porfirato collapsed after the aging dictator for whom it was named made a strategic error by making it more difficult for Americans to profit from their South of the Border exploitation.  The U.S. refused to intervene as the revolutionary seeds sown by the magonistas began to ripen, and anti-Americanism in Mexico reached a fever pitch.  A civil war ensued after Franciso Madero, the rich, Berkeley-educated, liberal “spiritist” who sought counsel from his dead brother was assassinated just two years after succeeding Porfirio in a democratic election.  The magonistas, much diminished in number as soon as Magon came clean about his anarchism, flamed out after ill-advisedly but understandably embracing a little-known 1915 invasion of Texas by Mexican nationals who aimed to unite people of color against Yankee tyranny.  They were slaughtered and Magon was convicted of sedition.  He died in prison, although when he was repatriated to Mexico, he was given a state funeral.

Hernández has given Magon his belated due but you can be damn sure that American children will never be taught this history.  If they were, how they could they ever pledge allegiance again?  

Ricardo Flores Magon by Diego Rivera(1947)


Sunday, March 26, 2023

Super Yachts

I guess size does matter.  To be honest, I wasn't all that impressed.  Or maybe I was just sickened by the unquenchable thirst for luxury exhibited by the assholes I'd recently seen in "The Triangle of Sadness."

Yep, Chris and I paid $30 each to pop our cherries at the Palm Beach International Boat Show.  And in no-income-tax land, even public garages are allowed to price gouge.  We paid an additional $20 to park and we still had to walk more than a mile to the entrance.

Do you think this gold propeller impresses the fish?

Alternative ostentatious transportation at the Worth Avenue Yachts booth.


At least some of the super rich are practical.


JFK loved the Honey Fitz as did four other U.S. Presidents, but it ain't no HMY Britannia!  



Boomer owners who can have it all do love a double-entendre !


I knew from "The Haves and Have Yachts," a fascinating but stomach-churning New Yorker article that exhibitors make it difficult for the hoi polloi to get their vicarious kicks.  "Boarding By Appointment Only" means this is about as close as the aspirational crowd gets.


Still, I did get a couple of interesting shots for my "Abstractions" file.



And even found a little something in my price range.

Monday, March 13, 2023

Non-Stick PAMM

I call the Pérez Art Museum Miami "non-stick," because there's not a whole lot in the collection that makes an impression on people looking for more than a selfie.  Cats and dogs greet visitors outside. 

Michi (Siamese) by Lucia Morales
Thom, Chris and I got to go as a group because Mercedes loaned him a sedan while Delia was being expensively serviced.


PAMM does have several "names" in its permanent collection.  Perhaps all the one-percent tech bros moving to the land of no income tax or much regulation will help the museum build a first-rate contemporary art collection.

"Regard the Class Struggle as a Main Link in the Chain" by Kehinde Wiley (2007)
"Abraham's Farewell to Ishmael" by George Segal (1987)
"Protractor Variation I" by Frank Stella (1969)

"Surrounded Islands"--Project for Biscayne Bay, Greater Miami, Florida by Christo (1983)
"The Gates"--Project for Central Park, New York City by Christo (2003)
I did like a couple of pieces by artists whose work was unknown to me.

"Rock Monument" by Alan Sonfist (1971)
"Black Is King" by Bisa Butler (2021)
"The Cloud - Big Fish" (2022)
But other work sucked IMHO.


Hélio Oiticica" by Penetrável Macaléia (1978/2010)
Still, you can't beat the views of Biscayne Bay from inside the museum even with UV blocking curtains. If only Christo's "Surrounded Islands" could be seen today!

To be fair, I'm probably not the right demographic for the museum's curatorial ambitions. That would be the selfie generation, who certainly outnumbered retirees, even on a Monday afternoon.

All the time I've spent in laundromats, and artistic inspiration never struck although washing clothes always did provided dedicated time for journaling.


Huh?


And then there was another "Infinity Room" by Yayoi Kusama.  After seeing others at the New York Botanical Garden and Crystal Bridges, is it jaded to note the the thrill is gone?  At least we didn't have to stand in line.


Uh oh, it looks as if I've fallen into a Louis Vuitton ad!


Tuesday, March 7, 2023

The Last Supper

Chris cancelled our lunch reservation at Los Danzantes for obvious reasons but La Casa Azul (and a 24-hour fast) restored my appetite so I suggested we try the restaurant for dinner.  The only waiter who spoke English had pink hair.  We sat outside on a perfect late afternoon.


The restaurant was about a 15-minute walk from La Casa Azul.  There seemed to be as many souvenir vendors as we had seen in Centro Historico


Coyoacán is definitely a neighborhood where you want to linger.



Especially if you like colonial architecture and gorgeously landscaped parks.




Coyoacán means "place of coyotes" in Nahuatl, a Mesoamerican languages dating from the seventh century.  Nearly two million people in Mexico and the U.S. still speak it.  We could see this fountain from our table.


The squash soup was probably a good bet.


The cauliflower tacos decidedly were not.  The after-effects of the delicious meal effectively ended my Mexico trip a day early.  I sacrificed a pre-paid, early morning guided tour of the Museum of Anthropology and Chapultepec Castle, one of only two royal palaces in North America ever inhabited by monarchs.  Next time I'll refuse the ice cubes with my agua con gas!


More Mexico City:

Viva La Vida

I have to confess an exhibit of Frida Kahlo's work at the Norton Museum didn't impress me much, but a visit to La Casa Azul (The Blue House) changed that completely.  The paintings exhibited in her family home where she took her first and last breaths--and where she developed polio as a child--are less narcissistic than the self-portraits which perfectly reflect her modernity.  "Viva La Vida" certainly embodies her sensual spirit.


Her father, a photographer, emigrated from Germany.


I love her color palette, whether she uses it for still life or abstraction.



This poster of her former lover hangs in one of the downstairs rooms.  He looks a little crazed and his hair isn't entirely gray, so it must have been created while he was still rabble rousing in Russia.


You can see here why she called her home La Casa Azul.  The blue is a lot like the one Yves Saint Laurent used at Jardin Majorelle, which has a similar feel.


Kahlo's tchotchke collection is non-pareil!







Her colorful dining table and a chair occupy much of an impractical kitchen. 


Nelson Rockefeller gave Kahlo this easel.


It looks as if she was good at playing both sides of the fence, something that seems to have been true of her sexuality as well.  Just check out Salma Hayek as Frida doing the tango with Ashley Judd in Julie Taymor's biopic. 


The New York Botanical Gardens "re-created" Kahlo's studio in the Haupt Conservatory in 2015.  It also exhibited five small paintings.  After all the hype, I left feeling ripped off. But La Casa Azul really exceeded my expectations.  I liked it almost as much as Anahuacalli which is about a 20-minute drive away.  Many tourists purchase tickets to see them both on the same day but I'm glad we did the sights separately.



 I wonder how Kahlo got up and down the stairs to her studio?


She napped in this bedroom.  That's a death mask.


Kahlo died at the age of 47 not quite a year after I was born, just a thousand miles north. The large Mesoamerican urn contains her ashes.


A portrait of Diego Rivera, whom she married twice, hangs in her bedroom.  They never lived together in this house.


"Wake up sleeping heart" is stitched in needlepoint on her night bed pillow.


The grounds of La Casa Azul are as colorfully decorated as the interior.












Another building houses a display of Kahlo's garments.


She drew this--"Feet, why do I want them if I have wings to fly?"in her diary--near the end of her life, around the time her leg was amputated.




Kahlo's corset supported her spine and looks like armor.


She titled this drawing, discovered less than 20 years ago in her bathroom, "appearances can be deceiving."  Indeed.  I wonder what she would make of her fame now, so long after her death?