Showing posts with label Saigon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Saigon. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 11, 2022

FLASHBACK: Saigon (1967 - 1968)

Ken volunteered to go to Viet Nam for a year to avoid another overseas posting of longer duration.  He landed in Saigon in 1967.  William Westmoreland ("Westy") was still in command of US forces.  Westy's infidelity with a local woman was one of many things that disillusioned Ken.


If Mary could buy me a pair of guinea pigs in his absence, he could grow a bushy mustache in hers.


Ken was assigned to the Military Assistance Command, Viet Nam (MACV) headquarters.


He lived close enough to walk to work.  IMHO, that's pretty high on the list of important fringe benefits.


And he drank beer on the terrace of the Continental Palace 50 years before I stayed there!



He took these photos before the Tet Offensive in 1968, when Saigon felt safe except for the occasional hand grenade tossed by a woman on a motorbike from a hand basket.


Independence Palace was brand new.


Saigon's motorbikes haven't changed as much the cars and buses.





Ken wandered the streets at lunchtime, complaining constantly of the humidity in his frequent letters home.  Saigon's entrepreneurs thrived on a black- market economy fueled by American dollars.  Only the sale of film dates this photo. 










Tet, an attack on Saigon during the Vietnamese New Year, changed everything.  It took two days for Ken to get word that he was safe.  Viet Cong shelling hadn't hit his billet.



In a humiliating blow to the US military, the Viet Cong even managed to shell the US Embassy. Although the surprise attack ultimately failed, it had a profound impact on the American psyche.


Sandbags replaced concertina wire around MACV headquarters.


A floating hospital docked on the Saigon River.


Ken flew into Tan Son Nhat Airport when he arrived.


Like other American and Australian soldiers, he also flew out of the same airport when he met Mary in Hawaii for seven days of "R&R" (rest & recreation), all expenses paid.


Ken took full advantage of his layover in Tokyo. He couldn't believe how much Japan had changed since World War II, 30 years earlier.


Note the attraction at the local Cinerama theater. The future then is long past now.






The Japanese invented the idea of shopping as entertainment.


Ken caught a live performance on a Ginza roof top.  Is that a monkey?


Upon arrival in Honolulu, Ken and Mary checked in to the Hilton Diamond Head Towers.



Their room overlooked Waikiki beach.


Mary took the sun.


Within a couple of months, Ken flew back to El Paso a changed man. He had nothing good to say about the Army or American policy and he probably would have helped me avoid the draft.


Friday, December 7, 2018

The Quiet Americans

Before catching a cab to the airport, we ran into Linda and Bill, a delightful couple who live in Yorkshire. Thom encouraged Linda to pose in his new embroidered hat.  When we bid them adieu, Bill teared up and said, "You two Quiet Americans have restored our faith in your country!" 


Thom may be crazy but he's always chic.  Orange brings together his new hat and Gingko backpack.  But don't tell anyone: those sunglasses cost less than a buck!


He and Linda had bonded over colorful footwear in Hoi An.


Not much of a final photo but it gave me some closure.  Dad flew home from the same airport, a changed man.  He'd seen too many body bags containing young Americans who had died for nothing.  I left half a century later marveling at a devastated country's forgiveness. 


Thursday, December 6, 2018

Controlled Chaos

Need some outmoded technology?  There's a street for that in Saigon.


We dodged a late afternoon downpour in Starbucks and watched the steady stream of motorbikes pass.  It's more diverting than you might imagine.


Cute pooch, no?


They call this the "secret" CIA building.  You may remember the American helicopter evacuation photo taken here.


Thom waved from the leafy balcony of the Hotel Continental.


Nearly everyone else in the Sticky Rice Crew had taken a day trip to the Mekong Delta.   As much as I wanted to see it, I wasn't at all sorry we had spent the day in Saigon.  We joined them for a final dinner after really poor drinks at the hotel.


Maybe we should have gone here instead.  Several ladies of the night propositioned us outside.


After dinner, we found out what happens when Viet Nam advances in the Asian soccer league.


The joyous celebration continued into the wee hours of the morning.