It's funny how your mind works. Her comment the first time I took off my shirt in the dune buggy, the year I graduated from high school, remains seared in my brain for the lingering trauma it caused: "Jesus Jeff, your tits are bigger than mine!" Perhaps that accounts for my rude greeting, which popped out of nowhere as she stepped off the elevator in the Chelsea Savoy Hotel more than half a century later. "Well, you haven't gotten any taller, have you!" The subconscious never forgets.
Williamsburg Pizzeria
JoAnne and Mia, her 17-year-old granddaughter, were in town for several days from Elbert County, Colorado, the red part of the state, less than a hundred miles north of where Cynthia, my other conservative friend, lives. They bought tickets to Hamilton upon arrival so I began our late-afternoon tour of Lower Manhattan with a walk along the Canyon of Heroes and a pilgrimage to the Founding Father's grave. His wife Eliza is buried there, too. American coins cover her flat tombstone.
Trinity Church Cemetery
I warned JoAnne that we'd be doing a lot of walking when she inquired if it would be OK to pack open-toed shoes. "Comfort should be your top priority," I advised. Apparently, she and Mia got over their fear of dog poop and needles! People have very peculiar notions about New York City streets.
"I can't remember when I've had my picture taken taken so often," she remarked at one point. "You obviously haven't been hanging around me much," I replied. This is as close to a smile as JoAnne got. She's also a woman of few words.
After grabbing a bite at Brookfield Place, we rested our dogs going to and from Staten Island on the ferry, one of New York City's few tourist bargains.
It's free and you can't beat the views!
The sun was setting over Lady Liberty, both literally and figuratively.
We toured Central Park the following afternoon despite afternoon temperatures exceeding one-hundred degrees for the first time in nearly a decade. They already had seen the Sea Glass Carousel in Battery Park, so I showed them a more traditional kind.
Unbelievably, some bros were playing pickle ball in the courts behind Mia and JoAnne.
I told Mia she looked as if she could have been painted by Velázquez.
"Lady with a Fan" (17th century)
"Is that a good thing?" she asked. Our frames of reference differed considerably.
This turned out to be as close as she got to Hamilton. At the last minute, Stub Hub failed to come through with the tickets JoAnne had purchased. Fortunately they got a refund and were able to see The Lion King instead.
On Wednesday, we agreed that air conditioned activities like art appreciation at MoMA would be the way to go.
A stuffed animal installation by Mike Kelley seemed like the perfect backdrop for a photo op. Mia had made a special trip to F.A.O. Schwartz to look for a Jellycat.
"Deodorized Central Mass with Satellites" (1987)
Next stop: Tiffany's, where JoAnne and Mia declined refreshment in the cafe. Imagine my surprise when I discovered they had brunched there the next day! My itinerary clearly didn't include enough luxury shopping time. Prada welcomed them, too.
On Friday morning we took the New York Ferry to Williamsburg. A thirty-degree drop in the temperature made sightseeing much more pleasant despite overcast skies.
Residents of Elbert County probably don't see a lot of samizdat.
I chose Haricot Vert Dreamworld as a random destination. It specializes in charms. I went a little overboard fashioning key chains for the D-Girls.
We people-watched on bustling Bedford Street. I taught JoAnne and Mia how to play "hipster or not" while they shared a slice of pizza.
"Maybe this guy loves New York a little too much."
Drew texted us when he finished assembling our purchases at Haricot Vert. Mia's bracelet included the letters F, F & A.
The last time Barb visited me in New York, I was a sophomore at Columbia. That was nearly 50 years ago, at Thanksgiving. Unbelievably no photos were taken. I sure didn't make that mistake this time! She and her husband Gary spent a day here before embarking on a North Atlantic cruise to Halifax.
When Barb last rode the subway, we paid 35 cents each for tokens, so very last century.
"Is it safe?" she asked, after I suggested that we mask up. "It all depends on which cable news network you watch," I replied. The absence of graffiti did strike her.
After meeting them at the Marriott Marquis, we rode the IRT to South Ferry and boarded the Staten Island ferry. You can't beat the views. Or the price.
We had a real New York moment on the subway ride back uptown: SNL star Bowen Yang sat across from us. "Bowen who?" asked Barb. No matter. I was thrilled, knowing I would have a great story tell when I returned to Fire Island the next day.
We peeked at the colorfully remodeled interior of Saks. During Barb's previous visit we bought an invisible dog leash at FAO Schwartz and walked it up and down Fifth Avenue to the delight of pedestrians and New York City cops alike, especially when we stopped at a fire hydrant.
After crossing Central Park, we spent the rest of the afternoon at 47 Pianos before dining at Gennaro, my favorite restaurant on the Upper West Side and then headed back to Times Square for The Lion King. It's amazing what you can see in 12 hours.
Even not very good photos can become more interesting with the passage of time. John Rechy's City of Night was still recognizable when I first began living on my own.
Times Square, 1978
Aqueduct
Tom and I took the train to Aqueduct. I don't think I'd ever been to a horse racing track before. Graffiti was inescapable for a long, long time.
Central Park
By now, I must have spent actual years of my life exploring Central Park in all seasons, and watching it blossom from a gritty crime scene to a splendid pandemic playground. It's also the place where I met Barnet, David, Leon and Florian.